Ten minutes into my first visit to Johannesburg, and I’m as certain as I’ve ever been that I will leave here with lessons learned. Already, the contrasts are hitting me from every angle. On the left is a painfully spare township. But all too soon, it fades in the rearview mirror as we turn into the swanky Sandton area, home to plush business hotel Radisson Blu Sandton (radissonblu.com). At Vivace restaurant, also on the 13th floor, I savor the lights of the city below, seen through the glass walls, as much as I do the food.